Saturday 24, Oct 2020, Delhi (India)
The sustainable road taker Soham Dave started his label in 2011. At the Lakme Fashion Week Winter/ Festive 2019, he brought his collection 'Zari' that had the feel of glitter of gold and silver. He used especial hand woven fabrics merged and created with the available resources of silk and cotton or silk with zari. Soham, ensuring expertise in his collection worked closely with the Fulia cluster in West Bengal and brought to the ramp the finest fabric. With relaxed pants, comfy blouses, feminine tunics and jackets appearing on the elegant models the collection was an ace at the show.
Starting with a great black and gold checked sari, the show moved to a brown pant suit and trapeze style blouse, layered kurtas with wide pants and a great horizontal striped maxi with side pleats. The boxy blouse with a full-flared skirt, black shift over flouncy skirt and the asymmetric shirt with cropped cigarette pants presented great separates for a mix and match story. The silhouettes were basic with amalgamation of creativity through checks and stripes for the boxy jackets or shifts. The final lehenga, choli and dupatta in grey/gold revealed a superior textiles tale. The collection sure did justice to its name 'Zari' - The glitter of gold and silver
Their collection ' Be There' had put out a strong message of preserving the nearly extinct wild life of both the land and the sea. Each garment was named after critically endangered species like Po’ouli, Pangolin, Dhole, Dugong, Baiji and Shika. Maku showcased a collection comprising of saris and dresses. It started with strong aesthetics presented through saris.
The neutral brown striped sari and many others teamed with boxy blouses reflected the beauty of the wild. Moving to the dresses that were free flowing with long-sleeved mini tunics with provocative gathers under the bust and mini shoulder plackets. The asymmetric placket for the boxy midi had cool side slits and a gathered back that was layered with a faux shield. A cross over striped kurta, the crushed skirt with long sleeved bodice and the horizontal striped shift had discreet styling. Men's wear consisted of striped shirts, unstructured jacket and another shirt with giant patches and slim trousers. The fabrics used were Jamdaani, Khadi in shades of dark blacks with pencil stripes or tiny motifs.
Padmaja's collection has 'siempre' been about eco friendliness and tops the list for those who have believed in green fashion forever. Her collection “Ayahuma” at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019 celebrated the beauty of festivals, rituals and dances with its delicate and relaxed silhouettes.
With patterns of leaves and gentle folds of petals, it was evident that she drew her inspiration from the vast nature. Her fabrics reflected her love for weavers as when seen it was witnessed that undoubtedly her team comprised of skilled weavers and dyers from across India.
Padmaja’s colours were drawn from natural tones of flowers, fruits, minerals and elements that showered the textiles in subtle shades, along with coconut, rose, marigold and other natural dyes sourced from recycled flowers and fruits. The show opened with a lively foot tapping Bengali Song moving further to setting the mood for a ramp full of crafts, textiles and colours inspired by nature. There were breezy kaftan dresses and blouses with dropped shoulders, gathers or pin tucked cap sleeves, low crotch pants with fluid blouse, loose kurtas, baggy dress with hem detailing strappy maxi, dusty beige dress with micro pleated sleeves and a lehenga with an asymmetric blouse in a two tone-print along with one- sleeve kaftan and white fluid printed dress. Keeping the brands belief of zero wastage recycling and up cycling with hand spun and woven textiles, the collection was a grand offering of modern design sensibilities. The Bollywood star Malavika Mohanan turned showstopper wearing a printed sari with a detailed blouse.
The “Ayahuma” collection by Padmaja was aimed at the woman whose sensibilities are rooted in nature and loves to walk the sustainable fashion path.