Friday 27, Nov 2020, Delhi (India)
The Lakmé Fashion Week 2020 Digital First Season Fluid Edition was an exceptional partnership between six renowned designer labels to promote different crafts of India. A craft-based initiative by IMG Reliance where the designer labels, Abraham & Thakore, Rajesh Pratap Singh for Satya Paul, Urvashi Kaur, Payal Khandwala, Anavila, and Suket Dhir showcased collections that highlighted vintage crafts.
The second phase of the initiative by IMG Reliance will carry the six designers and more, and there will be a 5-6 months project partnership between designers and clusters. The goal is to encourage clustered, neglected crafts, and those heavily affected by the pandemic by providing opportunities for artisans to live. The created collections will be retailing through an e-commerce platform. IMG Reliance will collaborate with NGO Creative Dignity, a trend that has led to the coming together of creative producers, practitioners, and professionals to revitalize the Indian artisans post Covid-19 and identify the most affected groups.
The fashion film was influenced by the contrast in manufacturing and retailing that is spotted in the fashion supply chain. To bring out the best of the sets, six offbeat locations inside St. Regis were selected. Thanks to their signature Indian folk and modern music mix, a notable musical collaboration with artists Hari & Sukhmani enhanced the entire experience of the show.
At the first-ever digital Lakme Fashion Week 2020, David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore's label 'Abraham and Thakore' presented their collection that emphasized on hand block printing technique. All the garments in the collection are apt to be adorned as Diwali outfits. The fine lines and geometrics of dots made the garments stylish and embellished the unique hand block printing. The designer duo did not select any huge color palette for the collection and experimented just with gold and sand. The designs offered elegance and style. Ladies can get inspired for Diwali dress for women from this collection by David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore. One of the highlights of the designs was the beautiful gold studded pinstriped sari with sophisticated long-sleeved, ruffled, Victorian-style, neckline blouse. This sari gorgeously emphasized hand block printing. Another attractive attire in the collection was a simple tunic and trousers paired with a flirty Kedia jacket. It was accentuated with gold dot design. It was an example of how one can get ready with their Diwali outfits that mix both modern and traditional Indian art. Next in the line comes a ruffled maxi skirt teamed with a cut-away shoulder blouse. For a semi-formal option, the designing duo added a look that consisted of giant gold dots wide-legged pants paired with cross over tie-up blouse of ruffled sleeves and deep decolletage. The combination of modern silhouettes with Indian traditional textile hand block printing techniques made the collection a perfect choice for festive wear.
Ikat's beauty is admired by fashion supporters in India and around the world. At the Lakmé Fashion Week 2020 Digital First Season Fluid Edition, Rajesh Pratap Singh showed his version of double ikat for Satya Paul Studio in solid black and white with a sprinkling of hot colors. History notes that on the Silk Road, the double ikat weave, which is 13 centuries old, was also used as currency.
Rajesh worked his imaginative magic and brought the Mirroring Pallav saris, which, when it came to ikat sari designs, was an arresting approach in striking monochrome and very inventive. On simple cotton saris, the blurred geometry of the patterns was visualized with the ikat accentuating the pallav, while the black borders completed the look of white sari.
There was the linear ikat for a black and white blocked color sari, which was one of the eye-catchers, adding some more drama. The focal point of another white sari with a rich red ikat border was a burst of multicolored geometrical squares.
Rajesh Pratap Singh shifted away from ikat's typical patterns and gave modern touch with visually spectacular pristine imagination. He continues to work with Mr. Govardhana, an artisan, the master craftsman of Ikkat from the Telangana area of Puttapka. This association with Mr. Govardhana, initiated by Mr. Paul himself, actually began in the 80s.
To influence the Diwali outfits, Anavila Mishra's label 'Anavila' unveiled her latest collection- Dhanak, that was a festive rainbow of colors. The word- Dhana is a Sanskrit word that stands for a rainbow. The literal definition of Dhanak that inspired the designer is- “ a mystical pathway between sunshine and rain that is the harbinger of giggly laughs”. Dhanak got inspired by the line that projected visuals of strength and light. The designer used her signature fabric- linen for the collection woven with fine-zari and khatwa work. The designs in all are a joyous offering for Diwali dress for women. To match the cheery mood of Dhanak, Anavila chose a color palette full of energetic colors for the garments and saris. She used jewel tones of serene citrine, impressive jade, alluring amethyst, terrific topaz, rich garnet, royal emerald, beautiful rose quartz, and intriguing sapphire.
The silhouettes in the collection were kept effortless and comfortable. Floral embroidered citrine kaftan had a layered silhouette with batwing sleeves and is an ideal comfort wear essential for Diwali outfits. To influence Diwali dress for women, the collection had a gorgeous red sari paired with choli. Another highlight was a turquoise blue sari paired with a zig-zag motif design, empire line blouse. The sari had a garland of flowers along the border. For adding comfort to festive wear, Anavila presented an attire that consisted of a fiery red, long-sleeved, baggy blouse that had a hint of embellishments on the hemline teamed up with wide-legged pants. This stylish combo is apt for Diwali outfits. The colours used in the collection makes it perfect for festive wear.
At Lakmé Fashion Week 2020 Digital First Season Fluid Edition, Payal Khandwala’s limited edition of just ten saris, handwoven in silk Jamdaani, was a vision of elegance. Payal conducted a craft exploration typical of fine muslin on handlooms. She rethought the background into a new avenue this time but remained true to her color-blocked silks, conventional floral and geometric motifs.
In each sari, Payal showed a meticulous format by placing two-inch design strips under the loom with myriad watercolor dots added to the woven warp to recreate the pattern on the yarn. A silver metallic yarn with the aid of a separate metallic needle was used to weave wooden shuttles according to directives.
With jewel tones preferred for the 6-yard wonder, Payal's color option was rich. The stunning combination of ruby red and dark ink gave a rich and luxurious appeal to the dual-toned sari. The splash of the floral print on the edge of the pallav was a major attention grabber.
At the first-ever digital Lakme Fashion Week, once again Urvashi Kaur showcased the beauty of her signature Shibori tie-dye patterns with her latest collection 'Tahul'. It was a beautiful display of crafts, textiles, construction, and detailing. The designs in 'Tahul' were a mixed variety of relaxed androgynous apparel. The collection had tiered and shirt dresses along with oversized silhouettes that offered trans-seasonal dressing options. Tahul had many mix and match options for both males and females. The sheer and opaque format gave a stylish look to the designs. The Shibori tie-dye patterns can be aptly used in Diwali dress for women. The color palette for the collection by Urvashi Kaur contained colours like grey, indigo, ochre green, and charcoal. The designs got inspired by nature.
The fabric base was diverse and, micro pleating and hand blocks were the stars of the collection. The fabrics in use for 'Tahul' were handwoven organic cotton, sheer Kota Silk, Jamdaani, and sheer boils. Fabrics had intricate stitch line texturing. The collection showcased consisted of men’s wear that featured concealed placket, boxy jackets, body-worn over a matching shirt, and linear striped pants. The boxy jackets had Shibori insets on sleeves, and the pants showcased bold insets and patch pockets with the crafts. One of the highlight looks of the collection was an indigo baggy, wide lapelled coat over a basic shirt paired with a Shibori patterned, layered, pleated skirt and trousers. The collection represented an Indigo shirt teamed with a micro pleated, Shibori pattern, swirling blouse, and skirt over slim pants. Another highlight of 'Tahul' was a drip waist pleated grey Shibori dress with a dark grey button-less jacket.
Suket Dhir presented his collection that appreciated and showcased the richness of handwoven silk brocades at the first-ever digital Lakme Fashion Week. The designer used beautiful weaves in jewel tones like vermillion, aqua, grey, and Fuschia for the base. To celebrate the 'Nature Within', Suket used a variety of animal prints in the landscape on the handwoven silk brocades. The collection was a mix and match of rich textiles. The garments were designed such that they can be worn comfortably. Highlights included an attire that consisted of sharply cut trousers with a shimmered jacket in shades of turmeric that was adorned over a simple solid-colored turmeric kurta. Another eye-catching look was the Fuschia brocade that had floral weaves with a 2-button jacket worn with a knee-length, flared, gathered skirt. The designer gave an elegant and traditional touch to the designs in the collection. But, the brocades were of contemporary styles with vibrant hues and motifs.